At the weekend I started to clean up the floor pan of under seal. I used a propane torch to heat up the under seal and scrape off the seal then cleaned up the rest of the mess with a good dose of thinners.

This is what the panel looked like before cleaning most of the seal was already removed except in the hard to reach places as you cn see on the inside chassis rail.

These show the panel cleaned up before I repair the rust that I found. In one of the pics i tried to show the pinhole rust spot which I may well have missed had I sent the car off to be soda/sand blasted. this method may be time consuming but in finding spots like this I think worthwhile.

This is the rotisserie in its finished state

As you can see the post slides up and down and is secured by the 2 bolts fitted. I havent had any problem with this set up. It was easy to load the car on to the rig and with the assistance of a trolley jack it was easy to raise up to the working position. The only thing I would possibly change is to put a bolt through the inner posts so that it could "pivot" slightly as the front jockey wheel can lift off the floor when rotating the car.

Well it is a new year and lets face it last year was a shocker as far as the project goes. I am currently building my rotisserie for the car. Here is how and in some cases why I doing it. I started with a pair of standard engine stands available from your local accessory store. I cut off the main post at the base and welded a length of 100mm x 50mm steel to the base. the reason I have used this size steel is that I want to use the original post and have that slide up and down (telescope) inside. First problem found one of the original posts is tight against the weld flashing inside the new post so it will need to be ground down to slide freely the second one works fine. To fix the telescopng in place I will weld 2 12mm nuts to the rear of the new post and will fit bolts to them to act as a lock. For mounting the spindle to the car I started at the rear. this requires 2 lengths of 50 x 25mm steel tube one cut to bolt to the rear bumper holes 1000mm long and one cut to fit onto the tail light holes (these will need to drilled out to 10mm). This bar I have cut to fit the full width of the rear 1450mm. The reason is that when I used the old rotisserie the rear panel started to bend as the brace that has the boot latch on it was not welded in place down the centre so let go and is bent. This was a good idea as I have been able to use the bar to straighten the rear panel. These 2 bars are then welded together using 50 x 5 mm flat bar 3 x 250mm 2 by 320mm all bent at 50 mm from the bottom to fit the angle of the lower (bumper) bar. the 3 shorter ones are welded to the centre of the bars and each end of the bars, The 2 longer ones are bolted to the spindle of the rotisserie the top bolts will sit just above the top bar the lower bolts are in between the 2 bars. Onto the front I cut a piece of 40 x 10 mm bar 340 mm long (this will need to be checked to suit your car)as mine has the front panel removed I guessed the length and the piece of steel was 680 mm long so I just cut it in half. I drilled 2 x 10 mm holes to suit the bolt holes for the front bumper and have bolted them in place. Because the front panel and slam panel hve been removed I fitted a a length of 50 x 25 mm tube across the bulkhead and bolted them in place. then all that needs to be done is to fit bars to the bumper bracket and 2 bars from the bulkhead to a bar across the front fit 3 brackets/braces and 2 more for the spindle to attach to and you are done